I didn’t have plans for last weekend but around midnight on Friday I got a message from my Bolivian climbing friend, Len, asking if I would like to go to Bolonia with them for the weekend to camp and climb. I couldn’t say no because so many people have been recommending this place to me.
the following morning I waited in front of the police station in the Alameda in Sevilla. Soon after I arrived, Soren, the German climber I met at Moron, showed up toting his crash pad on his back. Inyaki, a Spanish guy showed up and Soren went with him and Magda, a Polish girl showed up.
Len was helping Pili, a spanish climber who wasn’t coming with us, move and Lens car was at her house so Soren and Inyaki hopped in their car and followed the rest of us in Pilis camper/moving van.
Len is not the best driver and after making it to the gas station she had Magda drive us the rest of the way. Lens car is an older hatchback that shouldn’t be pushed any faster than about 110km/h but several times Magda was caught doing 140km/h. Luckily we made it safely, without blowing up the engine and free of speeding tickets.
La Habitacion, or “the room” is the first climbing area you come to when you hike up from the parking area and was also where we camped since it protected us, somewhat, from the wind.
Near by is Bolonia beach which is supposedly one of the prettiest in Andalucia according to several friends.
On our first routes, which were rated fairly easy a stiff wind around 25 mph and a sea spray that came from about a mile away made the climb a bit more difficult. later on when we got to some of the more difficult, exposed and higher climbs the winds full force could really be felt almost wanting to peel you off of the wall but still i managed to open a 6a and set the reunion.
Inyaki almost montando el caballo “mounting the horse”. When I tried this route second I couldn’t figure out how to get past this point and was exhausted so I asked to be lowered down. later i tried it again and made it up.
The area is a mecca for windsurfers and kite surfers and also the renewable energy sector. There are wind turbines everywhere in this region.
Len putting on her pies de gato “cat feet”.
No trees? no problem. just use the bolts from the climbing routes to hang your hammock. I tried to put up my roof/wind stop but it was like a giant sail and almost took me away so I resorted to bundling up and swaying in the wind all night. i felt a bit like a baby in a cradle being rocked to sleep. at some dark hour of the night i woke up hearing footsteps and again even later hearing a weird variable frequency that made me think a UFO was going to take us all away for experimentation. it turned out that the frequency was the wind vibrating the rope and transferring that vibration to the tensed nylon fabric of the hammock making essentially a speaker.
ALWAYS keep at least one hand on the brake end of the rope. A+ for Magda
looking into the hazy horizon you can see some mountains… that’s Morocco, the African country on the other side of the Strait of Gibraltar.